Confessions of a Surfer

I've been framed...

2011-03-09T08:06:00.000-08:00

Everyone has the occasional sneaky little drop in amongst friends, but rarely are they caught on camera. Massive thanks to Dara Oh who anonymously snapped a few shots and was good enough to leave a note and email address under the wiper. Thanks mate!

Stevey off the top when there wasn't a longboard in the way

Yours truly eyeing up a wee wan...

Thanks again to Dara and check out www.daraohphotography.com

ps. There also seems to be a bit of a problem with confessionsofasurfer.com So if you still want to check out my infrequent updates point your browers to www.confessionsofasurfer.blogspot.com!

Irish Intervarsity's 2011 Results

2011-02-22T08:51:00.001-08:00

Ione Byrne raises the cup on behalf of the overall winners, Sligo IT

Sligo IT claimed the 2011 the Irish Student National Surf Championships held on the 19^th-20^th of February beating stiff competition from the hosts, University of Ulster Coleraine who came second, Queens University Belfast third and Trinity College Dublin fourth. A total of 8 clubs and 125 entrants from across Ireland contested the two-day event at Portrush’s West Strand in 1-2ft clean waves, groomed by light offshore winds.

Poor conditions did however postpone the start of the contest to Saturday afternoon when it commenced with the 1^st round of the novice competitions and the championship’s first ever stand up paddle event, won by Sligo IT.

After a fantastic night’s entertainment, competitors awoke to a small consistent wave across the beach allowing the remaining heats to take place. The call proved a good one and by the afternoon the pushing tide provided a more than contestable wave for the finals to take place in.

The novice category again proved to be the most contested with over 70 entries between the men and women’s divisions. The very worthy eventual titles went to Moira Donoghue (IT Carlow) in the women’s division and David Lynch (UCC) in the men's.

The men’s longboard final proved a close affair with UUC’s Rory McNeary narrowly defeating Sligo IT’s Christian McCleod whilst the women’s longboard title was taken in style by Sligo’s Ione Byrne. Sligo also collected both the men and women’s bodyboard titles with the honours going to Ryan McEnroe and Nicole Schiffer.

In the Women’s Open Easkey Britton (UUC) took her 3rd open title at the Championships and as the light faded, the waves grew leaving 4 clubs to battle for the coveted Troggs Men’s Open title. As anticipated by his performance in previous heats the improving conditions provided a stage for event standout, Sligo IT's Ronan Oertzen who earned top spot and simultaneously attained the prize for highest two wave total, sponsored by Portrush Surf School.

The University of Ulster Surf Club would like to thank all who took part and the contests sponsors: Troggs.com, SurfDock.ie, Flow Boards Ireland, Bundoran Surf Co., Woodies Surf Shop, Portrush Surf School, WestCoastSurfer.com, Lahinch Surf Shop, Incide and The Playhouse Portrush.

Special thanks go to Causeway Coast Surf Club, the Irish Surf Association and Coleraine Borough Council for their invaluable help and experience.

-Thomas Smyth

Men's Open finalist Owen Murphy making the most of the small conditions on Sunday Morning

Longboards found the going slightly easier. QUB's Brian Cox finding some tip time to progress to the mens longboard final.

Your's truly couldn't match last years form and failed to progress through the first round.

The men and women's novice divisions were again hotly contested with over 70 entrants between them.

Sligo IT's Christian McLeod finding a shapely wave in the mens longboard final.

The swell steadily improved for the finals. Easkey Britton on a West Bay peak.

Ronan, Stephen, Aaron and Owen all battling for position in the Troggs Mens Open Final

The fading light and growing breeze didn't stop a good crowd for gathering to watch the finals.

The winning team

Men's Open finalists with Trogg's Andy Hill

Massive thanks to Adam and Andy for the shots!

Full list of results:

Mens Open

1^st Ronan Oertzen (SIT)

2^nd Owen Murphy (GMIT)

3^rd Aaron Dees (QUB)

4^th Stephen Murray (UUC)

Womens Open

1^st Easkey Britton (UUC)

2^nd Clare Stephens (QUB)

3^rd Niamh Marie Smyth (QUB)

3^rd Alice Jameson (TCD)

Mens Longboard

1^st Rory McNeary (UUC)

2^nd Christian McLeod (SIT)

3^rd Brian Cox (QUB)

4^th Cathal Sheridan (CIT)

Womens Longboard

1^st Ione Byrne (SIT)

2^nd Daniela Eckstein (UUC)

Mens Bodyboard

1^st Ryan McEnroe (SIT)

2^nd Patrick Alan O’Connaire (GMIT)

Womens Bodyboard

1^st N. Schiffer (SIT)

Mens Novice

1^st David Lynch (UCC)

2^nd Luke Storey (UUC)

3^rd Colin Burgess (QUB)

4^th Adam Karakurt (IT Carlow)

Womens Novice

1^st Moira Donoghue (IT Carlow)

2^nd Alice Garcia (IT Carlow)

3^rd Maria Hall (QUB)

4^th Aoibhin Curran (TCD)

Stand Up Paddle

1^st Sligo IT

2^ndCarlow IT

3^rd Queens University Belfast

4^th Trinity College Dublin

Irish Intervarsities 2011

2011-02-09T02:06:00.000-08:00

Intervarsities 2011. Give me a shout if you want any more info!

Birthday Fix...

2010-12-10T10:28:00.000-08:00

Yours truly. Not this evening but making the best of litte'un few weeks back.

Try to get a surf on my Birthday every year and managed to sneak a quick one before dark. Wasn't the best conditions but waves are waves and its my first time in the water for nearly 3/4 weeks!

Also have the internet at home again after 18 months without, so you'll hopefully find a few more posts here too!

Caught on Camera...

2010-11-03T14:10:00.000-07:00

Wednesday Very small but very clean and surprisingly alot of fun. Carl from Troggs Surf School snapped this shot of yours truly angry stepping!

Thursday Those rocks? That poo stance? Hooded and booted? Yes indeed it is me. Snapped by Gary McCall and gleaned from MSW. I thoroughly recommend looking at some of his shots without me spoiling them here!

Part Deux.

2010-10-27T12:34:00.001-07:00

Part II as promised. Steve took over the camera whilst I went back in to enjoy the mornings remainders.

Walking to the temple.

Getting there. Just need to learn to it with style!

Autumn textures.

Big thanks to Steve for the shots. You took some beauties!

Smoke on the water.

Stoked and speculating!

A day at the beach. Part I.

2010-10-17T13:09:00.000-07:00

After a lake like past week Saturday's sunshine and wonky waves came well received...

Unknown bottom turning

After a week coughing a new one Steve was frothing to get back in the surf...

and had the grin to show it!

Uni fresher and Cornwall import Dan throwing some.

Newquay shapemaking!

Steve taking the drop in a tad too literally.

Boards and Boats. Part II to come...

Stoke. Wherever you find it.

2010-10-14T10:14:00.000-07:00

Coming from the big smoke to Apple Tart, Guinness and a bottle of Bo.

Under a castle on the way home from work.

Watching others find theres.

Simple steps on quiet days.

Going West when it blows East.

Billabong Co.Sligo Open

2010-08-09T10:13:00.000-07:00

Saturday started small, onshore and pretty shapeless.

Ronan Oertzen made the most of it though and blazed through the early rounds

Steve, Aaron, Dan and myself made the trek and decided to have a bash at competition too. Steve looking pensive on his walk back...

Everybody loves a contest scene

Yours truly up demonstrating the versatility of a good board bag

Came up against John in my heat and got schooled as usual.

Conditions got a bit bigger on the push and so did the spray...

Ronan was the stand out surfer of the day and bagged wave of the day in the semis.

Not without some competition of course...

One under, one over

Ronan

Dan representing...

Nicole off the top and taking the title

Darkness falls for the first of the finals...

Big turn on a big board

Nose rising...

Few inches off.

Floating

Goodnight

Sorry guys. This post has been sitting in draft form for about 2 1/2 months. I don't whether it was because of the patchy coverage of the heats or my dreadful attempt at competing, that they never got published. However due to the recent publicity due to the success of the last contest at Easkey I thought it was about time these shots found the light of day too...

Derry Dawnie...

2010-07-17T04:33:00.000-07:00

Back in Derry for the weekend visiting the folks and decided to head out for an early sesh with the bro, Aaron and Luke before they went to work. Was empty early but by the time Adam had a surf and grabbed the camera it had filled up...

Yours truly (though a few inches of hair shorter) coming from the the bottom...

and sitting off the top!

Kildare come Inishowen man, making the most of his morning before real life begins...

Pulling out and dropping in...

Luke and Aaron coming back up the beach from an apparently "far bigger, far better wave". The grass is always greener boys, but Lukes rye smile tells me there may have been some truth to the tale...

Aaron and his trusty...

For all you Eagle eyed Tonnta readers out there you may notice I've got three different spellings of my name in the latest issue, Thom Smyth, Thom Smythe and Tom Smyth. Well here I am again, not quite making it...

Luke going left on the bendy Bic. (Just take a closeup at the nose of the board!)

Bump!Another wave, another Westbay

Dropping in...

The crew and the trusty overloaded fiesta. Massive thanks to the bro for cutting short his sesh to run in and grab the camera to give us some pics. Nice one Bruva!

Too big to only post once...

2010-07-15T04:08:00.000-07:00

Last weeks swell was massive for July and hence too good to only post on once. So here's the a few more shots. Unknown lining up and closing out...

A well forecasted big long period swell brings everyone out. Its Circus Time!

Body and Board

Up!

Leaning in while Aaron watches on...

Put your hands up...

Sit and Style

Between the Bars and clean flying!

Texture...

The Beast Awakens...

2010-07-08T06:39:00.000-07:00

East the beast awakened yesterday with a 20ft swell @ 13 secs. Not bad for July!

Lee trying to get round the corner

Looking on...

John getting her out and round

En route...

Coiled...

Sprung! John of the top.

Good crowd out but still plenty of emptys...

Fins and Flags. Summer in Portrush...

On a knee and in the pocket

Awok retiring for another day...

Getting easier...

2010-06-17T06:52:00.000-07:00

After Tuesdays clear skies and sunrise, Wednesday dawned foggy cold and small...

Waited a couple of hours till the push this am and scored a couple of real fun loggable lines just before the wind picked up. Spotted this guy heading into the water just as I was leaving. Real men don't wear wetsuits...

Got up at 5.45 for my third dawnie in a row this week. I often write about losing the battle of the duvet but its definately getting easier, one factor is simple routine and the second is chasing the stoke that was found on Tuesday morning. 30-45 minutes of sunrise, clear skies and chest to head high glass. Awesome...

My cross-stepping seems to also be slowly getting better too. Well, to the front of the board anyway, I still can't help shuffling my way back. Just gotta stick at it I guess...

Rossnowlagh Longboard Contest ...

2010-06-14T07:18:00.000-07:00

Arrived down Friday night and conditions were far from great. Headed out for a quick dip all the same in the onshore crumble, though getting to wear the old legless winter suit again felt great...

Yours truly getting down to some late night sliding...

O-bag and Steve made the trip down too. Owen stoked with his Desmond... (Owen affectionately nicknamed his 2:2 Desmond, after Desmond 'Tutu')

Round 1, Heat 4. Unfortunately my competitive streak in the comp didn't last too long when I got knocked out in heat 2 of the first round.

Bosco

Causeway representing. John in front, Bosco behind...

Conditions for the semi's deteriorated further and proved seriously hard going

Everyone did their best to make the most of it though. Craig Butler sticking it out.

Things started to relatively better on the push for the juniors and ladies final. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Hang-Five...

Butler taking the Juniors with a bit of style...

Your Judges for the finals...

Thankfully by the time of the mens final a few contestable waves came through. Emmet going right...

John Junior on the nose...

Nice finish

Emmett going broadside for John

Powerful surfing for tiny conditions...

Your Inaugural Rossnowlagh Longboard Contest winner - John McCurry Junior

Thanks to all who organised such a great comp. The waves may have been less than ideal but the craic and spirit of the thing was 1st class. Here's to many happy returns!

Full results

U 18
1st Craig Butler
2nd Christian McLeod
3rd Owen O’Malley-Daly
4th Bosco McAuley
5th Dan Britton

Ladies
1st Ione Byrne
2nd Naomi Britton
3rd Amy-May Garvey
4th Sophie Scott

Seniors

1st John McCurry
2nd Stephen Conwell
3rd Patrick Cassidy
4th Emmet O’Doherty

Shoulda been on it...

2010-06-01T02:29:00.000-07:00

That 'lil dude on a longboard shoulda been me this morning. Check out more surf art from http://scosurf.wordpress.com/

After bagging 5 sessions in 4 days last week, one of which will stand out in my mind for sometime to come, I've been keeping my eyes glued to the forecasts in anticipation of the swell due to arrive. I knew there was a window of opportunity this morning for some swell and light winds but the battle of the duvet was fought and lost once more... Here's hoping that this week does deliver and I can actually get myself out of bed. There nothing like starting your day than with a couple of peelers...

Bump...

2010-05-28T05:03:00.001-07:00

If you click on the image to enlarge, zoom in, squint real hard and turn your head approx 45 degrees to the right, you can just about make out 3 wee black dots floating about. Dan, Steveo and myself making the most of the sun and good winds early doors... (Pic from WestbaySurfboards)

After no swell and northerly winds dominating things locally since the start of the week was real nice to paddle out last night and this morning to something with a little more umph again. True it was closing out 9/10 and there was still more than abit of chop in it but at least the summer doldrums aren't here quite yet...

After the drought comes the rain...

2010-05-24T16:11:00.000-07:00

Yours truly at a spot he surfed alot in the past week. And shouldn't there be a bit of drop knee there Thombo?

After last weekends mini-mission I was lucky enough to get in the water locally most nights last week. True it was far from being the biggest or most memorable surf I've had but the warm weather and late night sliding gave me my fair share of stoke. Noticed elements of my surfing progress too due to just consistently being in the water. Just need to hold unto it through this next system of northerly winds and drought of decent waves...

Escape to the North West...

2010-05-17T04:13:00.000-07:00

The combination of a decent north-westerly swell, westerly winds and a free weekend led Aaron, Steveo and myself out west to find the promise of waves in some easterly headlands. A few waves were had on Friday night but it was Saturday's forecast that had Steveo pointing out to see...

Après-surf midnight Barbeque...

Saturday morning. The wave thats elusiveness inspired the trip, remained elusive and was categorically not doing its thing...

It soon became clear that the swell hadn't turned up as expected. Friday nights spot was even smaller than the night before and so the search began...

A few miles and a headland later some windswept rights were found...

The boys wasted no time getting suited and booted...

Guns don't kill people, currents do. (Check out the bullet hole below the A)

Aaron beneath the cliffs...

As the morning went on the swell kept growing too...

Steveo throwing buckets on a small wan...

and trying to the beat the section on something a little bigger.

The exploration of Irish mountains and molehills...

Awog on a wave that always looked like a closeout but went on forever...

Whitewater floating...

Midface on a green'un

After getting some waves we started making our way back east and home but couldn't help but take a final detour to one last spot we thought would have a wave. The view from over the dune...

Going right through the Ammophilia...

While Aaron decided to enjoy the waves from the dune and I ponced about with a camera...

Stevesky spent his afternoon pulling into as many little shorebreak closeouts he could find.

So much so that I could even make a collage from it. Thomas Smyth presents Stevey's Guide to Pulling (in).

Still Buzzing...

2010-05-12T16:16:00.000-07:00

Tonight was nowhere near as glassy or clean as this but it was actually peeling some...

No hoods, no gloves and for Eugene no boots either! Spring evenings at the local...

(Both photos from a couple of years back by Danz. Check out a load of her actual shots and photography here!)

Surfed until I could literally surf no more tonight. Wasn't expecting much but conditions got bigger and better as the evening went on. Sure it was a bit crumbly and slow in places but the good 'ol longboard was loving life and for the local not to be closing out on 9/10 waves is a miracle in itself. Good to be surfing with the lads again too. Somewhere in the back of head I have this grand idea of myself being someone who doesn't follow the crowds too much but sharing the stoke with good mates in the water when waves are a plenty is hard too beat...

Little Windows...

2010-05-11T10:22:00.001-07:00

Made the most of a little lunchtime window of less onshore and dribbly waisthigh waves today. The warming water, abundance of little fun waves and sunshine definately made it worth heading out for.

The Westbay at Westbay

Steveo getting his cross-step on

Wait a second. I'm the longboarder should I not be the one practicing this?

Saturday's Surplus...

2010-05-09T08:45:00.000-07:00

Few extra shots from the last post. Heard tale of waves on Sunday here too but theres not been much locally...

Beautiful light but somethings not quite right...

Wood log cutting back and throwing...

Hand drag right...

Be weary if you see this pull up at your local...

Summer light and lines...

Smack that

Paddling for a peak...

Nice turn

Texture

Back in the saddle (again!)...

2010-05-08T15:34:00.000-07:00

Up North's been pure bleak as of late and after finishing a month of field work yesterday I decided to look a bit further afield for some waves today. (Shot from westbaysurfboards)

A dad and a dog. Stopped in at the parentals en route for a bit of brekkie

94 miles gone and the onshores have turned to offshores but still no swell...

Journeyed on round the corner to my intended final destination to find people and potential

After not really having a session since easter this was all the convincing I needed to run back to the car and pull on my suit

Had a half decent first session and joined the cliffside peanut gallery whilst enjoying a late lunch...

The tide dropped, the wind began to swing slightly more offshore and so I headed out for another couple of hours. Was joined by this guy on the woody who was catching anything moving and ripping.

One going critical one going straight...

Despite the crowds plenty still went unridden.

Empty Picture Perfect petit right

Ridden Right...

I know this waves a left but for a while it was working pretty well as a right too. As the night went on though the lefts definately dominanted. Unknown going backside.

Pulled back view

Here's hoping its not too long till I'm back in the water...

Backlit by Streetlight...

2010-04-27T04:04:00.001-07:00

Backlit Huntington (By Hoang Khai Nhan)

Made it out to the local round 9 last night for a quick streetlight session. It wasn't big, it wasn't peeling but it was fun. A few seconds of slide is all it takes sometimes...

It's been a while...

2010-04-24T11:39:00.000-07:00

Nice clean lines from the start of the month...

Yours truly trying his bestest to get some tip time...

This ones optimistic...

Look at that clenched fist. Oh the rage that lurks below...

Cheers to foxz for the photos of yours truly from the start of the month. To be honest haven't really been the water that much since the end easter week. Lack of swell but more so an increase in my workload has seriously limited water time. Went for a quick search the other night after watching small clean lines rolling through when doing fieldwork but it had all but died by sundown and I very nearly ended up with the car being stuck...

However the chill's going out of the dawnies and the evenings continuing to stretch. Everything is not yet lost...

9'1/ 6'0/ 4'3 (colours may vary...)

2010-04-09T06:35:00.000-07:00

Dan in the pocket

Stevesky backlit

Making the most

Yours truly lining up a lump

Wham, Bam bodyboarding Dan

The end of a fun night...

Had a wee golden hour session with Dan and Stevesky whilst Dan's wee bro Jack stayed on the beach and took a few snaps with his new toy! (cheers for the shots!) Wasn't huge and more than a tad lumpy and bumpy but one of those unexpected sessions that turned out to be way more fun than it looked from the carpark!

Back in the Saddle...

2010-03-25T02:54:00.000-07:00

Yours truly on a from a Uni publicity shoot thing a couple of weeks back...

A weeks not a long a time to be out of the water but it had felt like ages since I had last been surfing. Maybe it was because my last session was far from great or that the lads had been out almost daily whilst I'd been busy or away but I was feeling more than a bit rusty and apprehensive, especially as I was heading out to surf some small, pretty rubbish looking lefts. Fortunately I stuck it out, pulled on the suit and actually managed to find a few pretty long cruisey rides. And as I walked back up the beach studying the shadow of my board cast by the moonlight I realised some of the stoke had bee rekindled...

Fiver...

2010-03-11T05:18:00.000-08:00

Had a photo of my own for this post but must've forgot to stick it on the hard-drive (d'oh!) Instead your gonna have to make too with this from bottom turn from the Picaresque Gallery

Today marked the end of a really fun run of sun and swell in which I had at least one decent session everyday for the last 5. Especially stoked when it ended on such a high note yesterday in some perfect longboarding rights. Hope y'all scored some too and here's to more the same!

Sun, Surf, Beer and a Barbeque

2010-03-08T02:13:00.000-08:00

Spring feels like it may have sprug and the North Coast is starting to fill up again. Saturday Afternoon on the beach.

Lumpy, bumpy and a little bit onshore but it didn't seem to matter much to Jamie.

Who shot J.R.? (I did, albeit out of focus...)
Saturday also marked the first BBQ of the year
Sunset in the Village

Saturday night's aprés surf entertainment, Cahalog O'Hare (Go on, do your ears and favour and give it a listen!)

Sunday dawned clean, bright and offshore.

Dan first out and lining up a roll

McG

Steve up for another weekend and another surf

Rights seemed to be the order of the day

Dan on a rail and another wave before work

Steve finding a favoured left

Setting up

The no so lost art of the drop-in

Steve got behind the lens for a bit too yesterday. Yours truly getting shut down in typical beachie fashion

It was Owen's first time out in a while and head over heels to be back in the water.

Black and Whitewash

And as the sun set on the surf...

The lights came up for Two Door Cinema Club.

Nothing ventured, Nothing gained...

2010-03-01T02:29:00.000-08:00

There wasn't much a doing locally Saturday morning so Aaron, Steveo and myself decided to put the boards up top and hit the road.

Some unexpected weather caught a few off guard...
The few behind the windscreen and between the hedges

After checking a couple of beachbreaks which were clean but tiny we stayed on the flats hoping something was a doing

Rocky Right

but Aaron unimpressed...

Back on the road

and a North-west left nearly but not quite doing its thing

With time running out and not a wave surfed we again hit the road with the thought of a certain spot in mind. A view of the pigs back en route...

Stiff offshores, a set of small but clean lines, sunshine and crystal blue water was enough to set the boys hearts racing and Aaron's legs running over one last dune...

The gold over the hill. Far from macking but after a day of driving it was more than worth getting in for, especially Steve who was buzzing to be surfing (and ripping!) a wedging left again no matter how small...

The locals wishing us good Baaaaaaaye!

Soft sand and cold hands...

2010-02-24T02:52:00.000-08:00

Aarons wagon on a different day and harder sand...

Got word of some unexpected waves from a stranded Awog yesterday who was waiting to get his car pulled free from a spot of soft sand by a local farmer. Enjoyed some leashless, small but surprisingly punchy rights with the lads till well after dark before the walk back to car numbed my hands to the extent I couldn't even grip my car keys...Agony! lol

Sunday Sessions...

2010-02-21T15:14:00.000-08:00

Morning dawned calm, cold and with a funky swell, a heck of a lot more than the forecasted 3ft @14s, followed by an epic evening sun filled glass off.

Steve (aka the goofy superstar) joined me for both high and low tide sessions. Here he is looking in anticipation for whats coming next.

The sun may have went down but the waves kept on coming

Last orders...

In a week when I felt I had largely missed out on waves today more than made up for it. Two super sessions, the first this morning on the push in funky/choppy waves a lot bigger than expected, (Must’ve been more than just a bit of northerly in the swell!) and again this evening on the drop but really clean, sunny, glassy and one of the better sessions I’ve had in a while. Seems that lately it’s been all about having your finger on the pulse, the onshores forecasted for all last week didn’t show and from the charts today wasn’t worth leaving the house for. Damn glad I did though…

ISA Intervarsities

2010-02-16T03:26:00.001-08:00

Saturday dawned small, still and clean.

Things remained much the same for the first heat of the mens open

Where lots of pumping went on

and even more sinking...

Some were able to make the most of it.
About as performance as you could get considering the conditions

Not your typical contest shortboard (mmm....)

Good from a far but far from good.

The tide started to fill and onshores blow as the day drew to an end and the finals commenced

Yours truly representing Coleraine and stoked to be in a final

Pretty in Pink

Your eventual longboard winner Stephen Kelleher

Easkey bringing home the goods for UUC in the womens final ran alongside the longboard

Sun down on Strandhill signalled an alternative source of liquid entertainment

Collecting 3rd in the Longboard (Buzzing)

Goofy superstar Stephen Murray in his post heat interview

El Capitano gracing us with a few words of wisdom

UUC on tour...

The morning after the night before

Sunday morning. Contest over and not a ripple...

Cheers to NUIG, the ISA and all involved for a great contest and a HUGE shout to Lauren, Eugene and Emmett from UUC for making the weekend such a success.

Something a little different...

2010-02-02T05:42:00.000-08:00

Yeehaw! Yours truly loving it!

Out of the wetsuit and into the rented ski suit!

Mia slide!

The little lady herself!

Much like my last post I again got three sessions in 3 days at the beginning of last week followed by a bit of a drought due to incessant onshores. I did however get a bit of board riding the weekend past. I've always wanted to go snowboarding/skiing and with Maria now only living 90 mins south of Glenshe it was decided we'd give it a bash. I don't think it'll ever replace my love for the waves but flipping heck was it fun!

1720

2010-01-19T07:56:00.000-08:00

After the snow came the sun (06/02/07)

Managed to grab 3 sessions in the last 3 days at 3 different spots. Yesterday was awesome. A sneaky lunch-time low tide session at a local spot that doesn’t break too often. I’ve always imagined it as a great longboard wave and yesterday was the first time to test my hypothesis. Sunday, plenty of size about but nowhere was truly firing and Saturday; weak, dribbly but strangely fun surf at a spot I haven’t been to in donkeys. But what stands out most was Saturday night after the surf, coming out of the water and the clock in the car showing 1720. I know spring has far from sprung but slowly, maybe, somehow, hopefully, we’re edging out of the frozen, dark and bleak mid-winter.

Snow Surf pt II

2010-01-11T07:31:00.000-08:00

One for the photo album. Thom, Rick and a Bic...

Ricky finding an alternative use for a boardbag...

Enjoyed another wee snow surf the end of last week. Conditions weren't near as good as Boxing Day 'nor was my surfing. Was grand the first hour but got stiff and slow after that resulting in some serious fustration. Looks like the thaws finally on its way here too...

Snow Surf...

2009-12-26T09:52:00.000-08:00

Yours truly preparing for the cold

Cold, clean and peeling.

Toes on the nose beneath the hills of Donegal

My Sleigh (I've never seen so much snow on the beach!)

Aaron had his work cut out taking photos today as the lens no had given up a bit.

Tried to burn off yesterday's excess with a few waves this arvo. Aaron's still recovering from faceplanting an icy pavement a few weeks back so he's still out of the water but kindly came along and took a few shots of yours truly, though hampered by my long lens giving up the ghost a bit. Here's hoping that the charts change abit for a few more festive surfs. Merry Christmas all!

In the bleak midwinter...

2009-12-22T03:43:00.000-08:00

Not yesterday, not the north coast but still pretty mid-winter.

Went for a quick dip at east yesterday after being inspired by Stuarty that windy messy waves, snow on the ground and it being the shortest day of the year are not valid excuses not to go surfing. Glad I did head out too...

Emptys at East...

2009-12-15T12:57:00.000-08:00

Empty right...

Owen doing his best to psyche himself up before the Uni mini-compThere were a few lefts being riddenBut most ended like this

Section beater

Took a few photos before the University's minicomp at East last Wednesday. Some nice waves last week but I was dosed with the cold till about Friday when I got a short but very (very very) sweet sunset session on the longboard. Very little in the way of waves forecasted for the next wee while so I made the best of a nice evening tonight and paddled out in 2ft of the worst onshore dribble you'll be likely to see. Was still better than enjoying the end of daylight from my desk though...

Cold wind. Warm water.

2009-11-26T09:35:00.000-08:00

Morning Thom...

Easkey left

Raging I lost focus abit...

Nice lines...

Kieran enjoying the view...

Really struggled to get to will myself into my cold, damp wetsuit this morning. So I went and took a few shots as means of motivation. Pity my philosophy was a tad flawed. Turned out being in the water was a heck of load warmer than taking photos of it. Some nice waves today though, but the crazy rip, super shifty peaks and struggle adapting between longboard and fish, meant after an hour or so I headed down the road to catch something a little bit more user friendly...

An ode to the dawn patrol...

2009-11-18T07:14:00.000-08:00

From the days of the dawn patrol...

I used to be able to get up before the sun. Drive the 30 miles to waves, surf a few hours and then head to work. But that was during the summer. Been trying to get up round first light to go surf before work these days. First lights only 7.30ish am and the surf's only a mile away but the cold, wet, winter mornings have been keeping me under the covers.

I did get to enjoy some mid-morning waves today but somewhere in the back of my head was telling me it was better earlier...

Wrong tide. Right board.

2009-11-16T04:24:00.001-08:00

Low tide cut back

Bottom turning

Put your hands up...

Walled up a bit better as the tide pushed

Even went for a bit of fishing to end.

Few wee shots of yours truly from yesterday morning. (Thanks again Rick for the shots!) Wouldn't usually be able to surf this spot much at all on a small swell and low tide but the longboard gave me enough float and momentum to ride the peaks to the inside. Whipped out the fish for a wee lash too just to make sure I don't fall completely head over heels for my longstick...

I love my longstick...

2009-11-12T01:36:00.001-08:00

Unfortunately this photo was taken over a year ago, not last night, but fun longboard rights they are!

Enjoyed some damn fun rights last night. 3 of us out sharing waves on longboards hooting and a hollering into each one. Making some head way on the 'ol nose riding too, trying to get both feet up there instead of just stretching the one. Awesome...

A weekend at East...

2009-11-09T09:20:00.000-08:00

Saturday evening at East

Matt Wright all smiles. (Is this Matt Wright?)

John Boy Cranking.

Dermot Left

Dermot Right

Yellow on top

But Red Below

Big, Brown and Upside Down

Sunday dawned bright but small and messy

Yours truly. Hooded, booted and steering the longstick through some mush.

Air Show

Stoked to have a shot of getting 5 on the nose (Cheers Rick!)

Check out Surfing Ireland for some real shots of Saturdays action. Andy managed to get a few crackers!

Big, Brown and Closing out...

2009-11-03T04:17:00.001-08:00

Yesterday looked pretty good from the shore but was one of those evenings when every wave you paddle for turns into unmakable closeout. Still good to be out in some decent sized surf again...

A long overdue update...

2009-11-02T04:57:00.000-08:00

Although I've been blogged in nearly 6 weeks I've probably been surfing as much if not more than ever. Yours truly enjoying some Friday night fishing after some truly leg breaking footy.

The locals been having its days.

Different means of enjoying a late summer golden hour

Rick my housemate has well and truly caught the surf bug. Here he is crusing on the longboard.

Rickenjoying the view.

Yours truly pumping out the last of the long evenings

Whats the view from your sofa like?

Tea time sessions...

2009-09-23T01:43:00.001-07:00

Ricky my new housemate has been out surfing with me 4 or 5 times since we moved in. He's gotta be one of the most confidant and fastest learners I've ever seen. Last night was his first night outside of the local and another climb in the learning curve.

Lady Longboarder

Driving

Teatime hack

Went for a few waves yesterday evening after uni. Seems like everyone was enjoying the teatime/ post work session before the light starts to fade. Unfortunately the light was already gone by the time I got out of the water to take a few snaps, leaving my only resort to take a few in black and white.

The end of a great weekend...

2009-09-21T08:11:00.000-07:00

Last orders. Twilight wave on Sunday night.

Owen trying to out run the horizon

Contrast

At least we won't be waiting long till the next run of swell

Had a great weekend surfing 6 times in 4 days. It wasn't always perfect but it was alot of fun. My Saturday morning on the fish and Sunday morning on the new longboard (I know, I've bought a longboard...) being the standouts. Looks like theres alot more to come aswell...

Moving...

2009-09-15T05:06:00.001-07:00

Been some surprisingly good waves and weather over the weekend
and some stunning sunsets with the odd glassy wall at the local.

Moved back up to the North Coast late last week to start my PhD. Lack of internet access has meant I haven't been updating as regularly as I usually do but its damn good being back. 4 sessions in 4 days has totalled a mighty 8 miles of driving, compared to the minimum of a 60 mile return journey per session when I was living in Derry. The local hasn't exactly been firing but at same time I haven't been finding it anywhere near as fustrating as I did a couple of weeks ago!

Morning Mess...

2009-09-10T05:55:00.000-07:00

Was bigger than expected this morning but also alot messier

The odd fun shoulder was still to be had though

North Coast pleasure cruiser

Wobbly rights (pt II) and some afternoon delight....

2009-09-09T12:38:00.000-07:00

Afternoon delight

Shared some short frustrating peaks earlier in the week that were very similar to nearly a year ago...

Yours truly. September singlefin loving.

Awog bottom turn

Air Aaron (minus the board)

Another left in context.

Meu amigo peludo

Horse v Adam.

Had a short frustrating session on Monday sharing some super short low tide peaks. Combined with last weeks sketchy session I've been feeling pretty apathetic and lacking a lot of confidence about my surfing. And whilst today my surfing was still far from where I want or where it should be, I began to solely concentrate on what I should be doing when I'm out there. Having Fun. And true enough as I loosened up mentally so too did my surfing. Demonstrating to me once again that most of my frustrations and inabilities are to do with whats going on upstairs rather than underneath my feet.

(Cheers to Ads again for the shots of me and Aaron!)

Getting reacquainted (with fustration...)

2009-09-02T09:40:00.001-07:00

Bodyboarder making the most of it early

Aaron finding a wave with a view

I just found frustration for the most part

Face wash and a hand barrel
Picking his spot on a glassy one

Bic and a fish.

Moving up north again next week as I start my PhD so I decided to get reintroduced with the soon to be local. This break has had some magic moments for me but also some highly frustrating ones. Today was unfortunately closer to the latter. Slow to pop, lacking confidence and constantly getting stuck behind the section. Bummed. Aaron however was having a ball on the bic. Early entry into the wave and trying to squeeze his 6'3 frame into 1 ft barrels and coming out grinning. Cheers to Ads too for taking the shots, stoked for ya bro getting along the face for the first time. Now there's no turning back to the land loving life...

I just couldn't sit still...

2009-09-01T13:13:00.001-07:00

Could only manage to stay home a few hours after this mornings session before I headed out again at high tide. Enjoyed a few playful clean walls for about 30/45 minutes before the forecasted westerlies turned up. Above: What might've been a nice wave before the wind.

At least it was a bit bigger than earlier.

Trying to get a different perspective of a familiar scene on another golden evening.

Back for more...

2009-09-01T04:05:00.001-07:00

Cleaner than last night but not any bigger...

Air temps made it feel a bit crisp this morning

Aaron's 6'2 wasn't quite in full flow on the pretty small, flat wave faces. At least he found a bit more success on the fish.

Aaron's girlfriend Laura (who is also my next door neighbour) , supastyling. Found out Laura's currently painting one of my older shots onto a three piece canvas at the minute too. Stoked!

Awok trying to unrun another section on the fish

Yours truly lining up a wee one.

Light Head

2009-08-31T13:23:00.000-07:00

Nothing spectacular but ridable...

Few waves and Aaron's ever increasingly pimped out wagon

Turned into a beautiful evening

From sea to shining sea...

Found a few waves after touching down from Scotland at midday. My 12th flight in 21 days. Not quite the lifestyle of the ecologically minded Environmental Scientist. My head was spinning and was feeling pretty lethargic for the first hour or so until the pushing tide started to add a little more size to the small waves and Aaron arrived to share a few laughs. Cheers for the stoke as always bud!

Day Tripping...

2009-08-27T14:41:00.001-07:00

Yours truly enjoying to be out again...

The Blondie Bro.

Three Amigos

Marty looking for some fish

He was getting there though

But surfing a 6'2 and 6'6 on your first surf is a steep learning curve

Shorty got low...

(Thanks Anne and Ads for the shots!)

Played tourguide on a wee trip up North today with the cousin, her boyfriend Martin, the bro and his lady.Took Marty for his first ever surf en route too. Not easy on sub 7 foot boards but he seemed to enjoy giving it a whack. Despite being tiny t'was fun getting out for the first time in three weeks. Was starting to feel the land locked blues in Africa. Was also my first time having a sesh in the "shorty" I made and was really impressed by the warmth and extra flex. Definitely be giving it a few more sessions before the water temp drops...

Memories from Mozam...

2009-08-26T13:48:00.001-07:00

Transport

Accomodation

Light

Childs play

Everyday

Reaching high at the school of peace

Staying positive down low

Proud of my first ever bash at carpentry

Branco

Mocuba, me and my pit

The beautiful walk home

This is Africa

Friends

Always a celebrating

The team and Bernadette

10 metacash taxis

Packed up for home

Just back this evening for Mozam so I thought I'd share a few shots taken with the point and shoot. Had a great time and if I'm ever out again I'm definitely going for longer. The only downside is that it looks like I missed the biggest and most swell of the summer. I guess you can't have it all...

I'm off (pt II)...

2009-08-09T15:32:00.001-07:00

I'm off again!

Emma with some of the kids last year

As well as being lucky enough to be in Poland earlier this summer for a couple of weeks, tomorrow I board the first of my 4 flights to Mozambique. 5 of us from the city are heading over for 15 days or so to help with a community development project that the rest of the guys were involved with last year. This isn't my first time south of the equator but it is my first time in Africa and I'm the only one from the group who hasn't been to Mozam before. May the adventure begin...

Not quite what the doctor ordered...

2009-08-07T13:04:00.000-07:00

Not the usual wee peaks that we hoped to see.

Although the swell was alot messier and doing less than last night, there was still enough whitewater to let Tes have his first bash at surfing on the bic.

Stephen in his more typical habitat of post cliff jump delirium.

Catching up...

2009-08-06T11:46:00.000-07:00

Team leader Tommy no more... After working in Tesco for the past 5 years, I worked my final shift last Saturday.

Unsuccessfully searched for some Donegal delight on Sunday before heading off to see Maria in Scotland at the on Monday. Derry to Dundee, £55 return by bus and boat and only 11 1/2 hours each way...

Came back late last night and got up first thing this morn to catch some of yesterdays swell on the pushing tide.

Fortunately the early bird did catch the worm.

Aaron caught some sun too...

Don't drop your camera. I did and this is the result . The hunt for some replacement parts for one of my lens commences...

As the tide and swell dropped we ventured round the corner.
Thinking about it...

Quite liked the look of this Al Merrick

North Coast boat trip, not looking so much like Indo...

A small lumpy, dumpy, evening...

2009-07-31T04:20:00.001-07:00

Kinda reminds me of a smaller version of Wednesday night

Nice evening though

Bird watching...

Looked even better from the water

Was up the north for an interview so despite poor waves Aaron and I decided to go for a dip anyways. Lumpy, dumpy, shorebreak was the best we could find.Tough waves to do anything on but a couple of steep short shoulders were found, whilst Awog was buzzing pulling into any teeny weeny death keg he could find.

Worth waking up for...

2009-07-28T10:37:00.001-07:00

Early peeler

The battle of the 6'2's. Aarons new stick on the left and the trusty fish.

As with the past few nights, it got better as the tide pushed

Not massive but clean, offshore and the sun even made an appearance. Loads of fun.

Peak a Boo

Beach life and the Man Utd youth team training for the milk cup.

Aaron and I made the resolution to have one last pre-work dawny before I quit Tesco at the end of the week. It hasn't happened since I've been keeping confessions but in the past couple of summers Aaron and I were pretty regular dawn patrollees, buzzing to get a surf in before returning to the real world. Thankfully today sentiment paid off and last nights pretty lumpy surf turned into slightly smaller clean offshore peaks up and down the beach. Had a wee bash on Big A's new 6'2 aswell and was impressed by how easily it caught waves despite being nearly an inch thinner than the fish. Its getting my confidence up to get back on my quad again!

It got better...

2009-07-27T16:41:00.001-07:00

A bit better than this morning...

Speed Blur...

Even glassed off abit...

Texture

The rights were sweet...

So were a few of the lefts.

It got better. Lefts and rights but as usual I was mostly going right. T'was good to be back on the fish again, gliding on the singlefin is fun but the fish just gives you that bit more room to manoeuvre. Good to see Luke coming on real good these days too. Tonight was the first time I've seen him out back and getting face fairly regularly. Stoked mate!

Maybe later...

2009-07-27T07:53:00.001-07:00

Far from appealing...

Last nights waves were replaced by crosshore 1 ft scrap this afternoon. Decided to keep the wetsuit dry in hope of something better this evening when the winds forecasted to turn offshore and the swell increase a little in size again. Here's hoping...

Fin Fun...

2009-07-26T17:05:00.000-07:00

Moody skies and building swell...

The banks were good and thankfully only got better as the swell got bigger

Arrived fairly this evening hoping that some of the south westerly swell had wrapped round the coast. We arrived to some small perfectly formed peelers which i duly enjoyed leashless on the singlefin. However as the tide pushed and the anticipated swell filled in things became alot more fun, the impending darkness being our only downfall. Aaron was looking really good on his 6'8 tonight too. He had his tail up and was throwing a bit of spray especially when I happened to be paddling back out on the shoulder. Buzzing mate!

100 not out...

2009-07-20T15:49:00.001-07:00

Few clean windy wans this afternoon

Rosy making the most of it

Rights off the rocks

Hoodlum

Making my way through the mess

Looks can be deceiving

Ventured south of the border to catch a few clean windy ones this afternoon. Unfortunately though as the wind dropped so too did the waves. Thought I'd make the most of the swell though and after some grub headed for another surf north of the border, trying to the make most of the unexpected 3 ft dumpy, heavy, beach break mess before dark.

Ps. This is also officially my 100th published post on confessions . Cheers to all who have read, commented and stuck links on their own sites. Heres to a 100 more!

Forgotten wetsuit and missed waves...

2009-07-19T16:58:00.001-07:00

Aaron heading down while I headed home to get my wetsuit

Longboards definitely made the most out of todays conditions. Anonymous finding some shelter from the 25 mph+ westerlys

This guy caught a few nice wans as the afternoon wore on.

Late night slab. Would love to see what it could so what with a bit more swell.

Aaron and I headed off to the only place we thought could provide some shelter from the forecast westerlys but still hold some swell. Fortunately the spot in mind didn't seem to bad but I unwittingly forgot my wetsuit leaving me to head home and apparently missing the best of the days waves.

In the garden...

2009-07-18T13:56:00.001-07:00

Decided to take the lower legs of an old winter suit tonight in the hope of some warmer sessions this summer

I conveniently remembered from an old Surfers Path article that wetsuit off-cuts make awesome beer holders

Don't think I've ever actually posted a picture of my quiver. From left to right 6'6 singlefin, 6'2 twin keel fish, 6'0 quad, all made by Escape surfboards.

The current quiver and current banner

Anything but three

Enjoying some unexpected evening rays...

There she goes...

2009-07-15T14:44:00.000-07:00

Maria headed off to Scotland yesterday to take a job as a pre-reg optometrist for at least a couple of years. Better get booking those flights now then...

Grabbed an afternoon session for a couple of hours after saying our goodbyes.The session started quite frustrating again but found my way with a couple of fishy, fast, fun rights.

Rolled on home to Derry for a couple of hours before heading back up the road to catch a few before dark with the lads. The chest/waist high sets however had turned to ankle slappers but with a bit of endeavor and alot of walking we found some fun lefts on the pushing tide. Left the water round 11, finally got to me bed about 1.30 and was up at 6 am again for work. mmm tasty...

Who ate all the pies?

2009-07-13T05:39:00.000-07:00

Similar conditions to last night

Had an absolute shocker of a session last night up north with about 20 others. The recent holidaying and lack of surf of late has left me seriously unfit and out of sorts. Kept the suit on though and found some unexpected redemption a bit closer to home

Out west...

2009-07-10T16:18:00.000-07:00

I hate phone lines...

The lady and I at a place of many fish but few waves

Camping craic...

And something a bit more posh.

Little miss attitude

Been out west with the lady for the past few days. We had a great time but was frustrating being round those parts and not getting a surf. 2ft and onshore was about as good as it got... Finally got into the water up north today coming back from Belfast and resorted to renting a foamie and making the best of some small, crumbling, beach break, closeouts. Not quite what I was hoping for but its been my first surf in nearly 6 weeks!

Poland and a PhD

2009-06-23T17:16:00.000-07:00

No longer the view from my window

The last of the campfires

Late night paddling

Walking the plank

Hopefully plenty more summer loving

Returned home from Poland this afternoon, after a great couple of weeks. Great kids, great times and plenty more friendships from round the world made. Stoked to be home too though, Especially since a letter of acceptance to a PhD I applied for a couple months back was sitting in the hallway. Buzzing! Looks like Thom's spending another 3 years about the North Coast and joins Paud and Pete as Irish PhD studying bloggers!

Teaching the kids howda SUP...

2009-06-18T08:10:00.000-07:00

Team Ireland and two flags you wouldn't usually see together...

Lake times

On duty

Poland rocks. The kids are awesome. The weathers been very mixed but there's a lake, kayaks and a few old windsurfing boards which I've been teaching the kids how to Stand Up Paddle on. I know teaching kids to SUP might not been the best thing but its as close to surfing as I can get! Hopefully get another wee update before I get home too!

I'm off...

2009-06-10T13:07:00.001-07:00

I wish...

Been flat as a crepe round here for the past 10 days or so and I'm off to Poland to do some kids work for the next couple of weeks. Raging I haven't surfed since Last saturday but such is life! Have a great couple of weeks y'all!

ps. My degree classification was released today. Turns out I've passed with a 1st. Stoked!

More flat distractions...

2009-06-03T16:57:00.000-07:00

From such great heights

Bodies in flight

When he's not learning to save peoples lives, Stephen can be found throwing himself of things

S'Campbell getting reintroduced to Irish waters

Swedish love

Went somewhere different to enjoy the sun show

Pity I turned up a bit late

Taking the tour

The walk back

We might of missed the sun but the light show lasted for ages...

Weather but no waves...

2009-06-02T15:18:00.000-07:00

My favorite view on the way to waves...

The lovely lady

Raging bull/ Charging brother

It ain't quite skimboarding daily bread style but its something to do

Head on...

Family and Friends

Just another use of the 'fun tub'

Been a few more cracking sunsets this week too...

First of the summer sessions...

2009-05-30T16:34:00.000-07:00

Back lit line.

Getting down...

Cheating 5 (Pity about the lack of focus...)

Today officially marked the beginning of summer, both in regards to the weather picking up and me back surfing from home. Being based 24 miles from my closest wave compared to 1.4 miles during term time always changes things up abit. So due to the decent weather and what looks like the last bit of swell for a while the Awog and I packed up after work and hit the closest and least crowded wave we could. Fortunately we were greeted by some fun rights with only one guy out (pictured above), which we enjoyed long after the sun had set. Tonight was also the first time I'd surfed the fish with the new fins on. Really did make such a difference. The substantially smaller size makes the board feel alot looser and alot easier to throw into turns. Gonna be fun getting to know it alittle better!

Here at last, on the shores of the sea... comes the end of our Fellowship.

2009-05-29T16:35:00.000-07:00

Thought I'd share some images which have made up my last week of Uni life and living in the Port. Sunday with the ladies family, teaching the girls how to surf, enjoying some sunsets, camping on Rathlin and a wee bit of time spent in the pub throughout...

Today I packed up the last of my stuff, said my goodbyes, handed in the keys and and finally moved back home. Thom has once again become another urban dwelling city surfer!

Fins, Foamies and The Final Affair...

2009-05-23T03:59:00.000-07:00

Fins

Foamies

The Final Affair

Unanticipated action...

2009-05-19T15:23:00.000-07:00

Didn't expect to see any sort of a pulse in the water this morning

Sweeping up...

'loadsa fun' rights...

Singlefin love

The building clean and glassy conditions turned abit scrappy as the afternoon wore on

Afternoon surf check...

Didn't expect too see much today but was pleasantly surprised by watching a couple of pulses come through when pulling up in the carpark. Wasn't huge but conditions curiously built despite the forecasts and between showers some seriously glassy waves were on offer. The odd set even rumbled through that was big enough to force a couple of serious ice-cream headaches (water strangely seemed alot colder today) and a wee pummeling onto the sandbar!

Thinning the herd...

2009-05-18T14:50:00.001-07:00

One of yesterdays rare rippable rights...

So like the sale of the 7'2, today I said goodbye to my 6'10. Having not surfed it once during the history of confessions was sign enough for me to let it go and stop gathering dings in the garage. Max, I hope ya have a ball on it!

Oh and check out the the trailer for Fresh Fruit for Rotten Vegetables below. Cool to see a range of boards/styles all surfed to a really high standard in the one vid!

Fresh Fruit for Rotten Vegetables from Surf Craft Media on Vimeo.