Wednesday, 2 September 2009

Getting reacquainted (with fustration...)

Bodyboarder making the most of it early
Aaron finding a wave with a view
I just found frustration for the most part
Face wash and a hand barrel
Picking his spot on a glassy one
Bic and a fish.

Moving up north again next week as I start my PhD so I decided to get reintroduced with the soon to be local. This break has had some magic moments for me but also some highly frustrating ones. Today was unfortunately closer to the latter. Slow to pop, lacking confidence and constantly getting stuck behind the section. Bummed. Aaron however was having a ball on the bic. Early entry into the wave and trying to squeeze his 6'3 frame into 1 ft barrels and coming out grinning. Cheers to Ads too for taking the shots, stoked for ya bro getting along the face for the first time. Now there's no turning back to the land loving life...

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