From the days of the dawn patrol...
I used to be able to get up before the sun. Drive the 30 miles to waves, surf a few hours and then head to work. But that was during the summer. Been trying to get up round first light to go surf before work these days. First lights only 7.30ish am and the surf's only a mile away but the cold, wet, winter mornings have been keeping me under the covers.
I did get to enjoy some mid-morning waves today but somewhere in the back of my head was telling me it was better earlier...
I did get to enjoy some mid-morning waves today but somewhere in the back of my head was telling me it was better earlier...
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