In a week when I felt I had largely missed out on waves today more than made up for it. Two super sessions, the first this morning on the push in funky/choppy waves a lot bigger than expected, (Must’ve been more than just a bit of northerly in the swell!) and again this evening on the drop but really clean, sunny, glassy and one of the better sessions I’ve had in a while. Seems that lately it’s been all about having your finger on the pulse, the onshores forecasted for all last week didn’t show and from the charts today wasn’t worth leaving the house for. Damn glad I did though…
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