Back in the Saddle...

Yours truly on a from a Uni publicity shoot thing a couple of weeks back...

A weeks not a long a time to be out of the water but it had felt like ages since I had last been surfing. Maybe it was because my last session was far from great or that the lads had been out almost daily whilst I'd been busy or away but I was feeling more than a bit rusty and apprehensive, especially as I was heading out to surf some small, pretty rubbish looking lefts. Fortunately I stuck it out, pulled on the suit and actually managed to find a few pretty long cruisey rides. And as I walked back up the beach studying the shadow of my board cast by the moonlight I realised some of the stoke had bee rekindled...

Who ate all the pies?

Similar conditions to last night

Had an absolute shocker of a session last night up north with about 20 others. The recent holidaying and lack of surf of late has left me seriously unfit and out of sorts. Kept the suit on though and found some unexpected redemption a bit closer to home

Road to Redemption

No need for a name... (and not my photo)

Westerlies were blowing up north when I woke this morning so decided to hit the road for some redemption after Fridays escapades. Managed to grab some lunch with the parents and pick up a couple of mates on the way and were thankfully rewarded with some decent waves. Still not surfing the way I want to be and struggling to find my feet with this new board (sometimes literally!) but it was hard to wipe the smiles of our faces after a couple of steep lefts. Perhaps a day not so good for the carbon footprint though...

Redemption

Aaron and the trusty wagon

Awok took the trusty bic for a wee change of pace

After missing alot of good swells this month it was great to get back in the water. Noticed myself getting a bit complacent and lazy after a few poor sessions and trying to contend with freezing conditions. Today wasn't any warmer nor was the swell really all that good but by making that extra bit of effort we were rewarded by a super fun session of wedgey rights and long lefts combined with a stunning sunset. Even the numbing long ass walk back to the car couldn't take the grins of our faces.