Wednesday 12 May 2010

Still Buzzing...

Tonight was nowhere near as glassy or clean as this but it was actually peeling some...
No hoods, no gloves and for Eugene no boots either! Spring evenings at the local...

(Both photos from a couple of years back by Danz. Check out a load of her actual shots and photography here!)



Surfed until I could literally surf no more tonight. Wasn't expecting much but conditions got bigger and better as the evening went on. Sure it was a bit crumbly and slow in places but the good 'ol longboard was loving life and for the local not to be closing out on 9/10 waves is a miracle in itself. Good to be surfing with the lads again too. Somewhere in the back of head I have this grand idea of myself being someone who doesn't follow the crowds too much but sharing the stoke with good mates in the water when waves are a plenty is hard too beat...

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