1720

After the snow came the sun (06/02/07)

Managed to grab 3 sessions in the last 3 days at 3 different spots. Yesterday was awesome. A sneaky lunch-time low tide session at a local spot that doesn’t break too often. I’ve always imagined it as a great longboard wave and yesterday was the first time to test my hypothesis. Sunday, plenty of size about but nowhere was truly firing and Saturday; weak, dribbly but strangely fun surf at a spot I haven’t been to in donkeys. But what stands out most was Saturday night after the surf, coming out of the water and the clock in the car showing 1720. I know spring has far from sprung but slowly, maybe, somehow, hopefully, we’re edging out of the frozen, dark and bleak mid-winter.

Wobbly rights (pt II) and some afternoon delight....

Afternoon delight

Shared some short frustrating peaks earlier in the week that were very similar to nearly a year ago...

Yours truly. September singlefin loving.

Awog bottom turn

Air Aaron (minus the board)

Another left in context.

Meu amigo peludo

Horse v Adam.

Had a short frustrating session on Monday sharing some super short low tide peaks. Combined with last weeks sketchy session I've been feeling pretty apathetic and lacking a lot of confidence about my surfing. And whilst today my surfing was still far from where I want or where it should be, I began to solely concentrate on what I should be doing when I'm out there. Having Fun. And true enough as I loosened up mentally so too did my surfing. Demonstrating to me once again that most of my frustrations and inabilities are to do with whats going on upstairs rather than underneath my feet.

(Cheers to Ads again for the shots of me and Aaron!)