Confessions of a small wave surfer?

Was a heck of a lot bigger than expected

Hooking it up...

Not quite on the same scale as the previous nights surf

Last night's accommodation

Shaun looking on...

Looking at the charts I couldn't get a certain somewhere out of my head yesterday so the Abomb and I jumped in the wagon and go have a look see. Couldn't believe the size of the swell and the amount of guys out when we got got there though. As watched and took a few snaps my excitement turned to unease. Watching those waves and the guys on them I felt completely out of my depth. That the boards on top of the car were just were for effect, that perhaps confessions of a surfer should maybe be confessions of a supposed/small wave/inadequate surfer... Eventually we left feeling dejected and looked for something abit more manageable and fortunately we scored and surfed for another few hours again this morning. It was far from the pictures above but it felt good and brought a smile to our faces and not to sound cliched but is that not what its about...

Whatever the story confessions of a surfer remains and hopefully before too long I'll grow myself a pair and surf some waves I can currently only dream about.