Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts

Monday, 17 May 2010

Escape to the North West...

The combination of a decent north-westerly swell, westerly winds and a free weekend led Aaron, Steveo and myself out west to find the promise of waves in some easterly headlands. A few waves were had on Friday night but it was Saturday's forecast that had Steveo pointing out to see...
Après-surf midnight Barbeque...
Saturday morning. The wave thats elusiveness inspired the trip, remained elusive and was categorically not doing its thing...
It soon became clear that the swell hadn't turned up as expected. Friday nights spot was even smaller than the night before and so the search began...
A few miles and a headland later some windswept rights were found...
The boys wasted no time getting suited and booted...
Guns don't kill people, currents do. (Check out the bullet hole below the A)
Aaron beneath the cliffs...
As the morning went on the swell kept growing too...
Steveo throwing buckets on a small wan...
and trying to the beat the section on something a little bigger.
Awog on a wave that always looked like a closeout but went on forever...
Whitewater floating...
Midface on a green'un
After getting some waves we started making our way back east and home but couldn't help but take a final detour to one last spot we thought would have a wave. The view from over the dune...
Going right through the Ammophilia...
While Aaron decided to enjoy the waves from the dune and I ponced about with a camera...
Stevesky spent his afternoon pulling into as many little shorebreak closeouts he could find.
So much so that I could even make a collage from it. Thomas Smyth presents Stevey's Guide to Pulling (in).


Friday, 15 May 2009

Confessions of a small wave surfer?

Was a heck of a lot bigger than expected
Hooking it up...
Not quite on the same scale as the previous nights surf
Last night's accommodation
Shaun looking on...

Looking at the charts I couldn't get a certain somewhere out of my head yesterday so the Abomb and I jumped in the wagon and go have a look see. Couldn't believe the size of the swell and the amount of guys out when we got got there though. As watched and took a few snaps my excitement turned to unease. Watching those waves and the guys on them I felt completely out of my depth. That the boards on top of the car were just were for effect, that perhaps confessions of a surfer should maybe be confessions of a supposed/small wave/inadequate surfer... Eventually we left feeling dejected and looked for something abit more manageable and fortunately we scored and surfed for another few hours again this morning. It was far from the pictures above but it felt good and brought a smile to our faces and not to sound cliched but is that not what its about...

Whatever the story confessions of a surfer remains and hopefully before too long I'll grow myself a pair and surf some waves I can currently only dream about.