Managed to grab 3 sessions in the last 3 days at 3 different spots. Yesterday was awesome. A sneaky lunch-time low tide session at a local spot that doesn’t break too often. I’ve always imagined it as a great longboard wave and yesterday was the first time to test my hypothesis. Sunday, plenty of size about but nowhere was truly firing and Saturday; weak, dribbly but strangely fun surf at a spot I haven’t been to in donkeys. But what stands out most was Saturday night after the surf, coming out of the water and the clock in the car showing 1720. I know spring has far from sprung but slowly, maybe, somehow, hopefully, we’re edging out of the frozen, dark and bleak mid-winter.
1 comment:
A poetic way of describing the game of surfing in an artistic way!
-Wavetribe.com
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