Still Buzzing...

Tonight was nowhere near as glassy or clean as this but it was actually peeling some...

No hoods, no gloves and for Eugene no boots either! Spring evenings at the local...

(Both photos from a couple of years back by Danz. Check out a load of her actual shots and photography here!)

Surfed until I could literally surf no more tonight. Wasn't expecting much but conditions got bigger and better as the evening went on. Sure it was a bit crumbly and slow in places but the good 'ol longboard was loving life and for the local not to be closing out on 9/10 waves is a miracle in itself. Good to be surfing with the lads again too. Somewhere in the back of head I have this grand idea of myself being someone who doesn't follow the crowds too much but sharing the stoke with good mates in the water when waves are a plenty is hard too beat...

1720

After the snow came the sun (06/02/07)

Managed to grab 3 sessions in the last 3 days at 3 different spots. Yesterday was awesome. A sneaky lunch-time low tide session at a local spot that doesn’t break too often. I’ve always imagined it as a great longboard wave and yesterday was the first time to test my hypothesis. Sunday, plenty of size about but nowhere was truly firing and Saturday; weak, dribbly but strangely fun surf at a spot I haven’t been to in donkeys. But what stands out most was Saturday night after the surf, coming out of the water and the clock in the car showing 1720. I know spring has far from sprung but slowly, maybe, somehow, hopefully, we’re edging out of the frozen, dark and bleak mid-winter.